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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.